I purchased a manual metric milling machine (model 5410) and manual lathe (4410). After learning the basics of machining, I went for my ultimate goal of CNC (computer numeric control). Beginners, take it from me, it is very possible and this site should prove it. I knew NOTHING about CAD, CAM, CNC, G-Code, or Machining (not to mention making a web page :) but have learned by reading and much experimenting. I credit most of my learning to the internet, mainly the CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO, Sherline Group, CNCZone  and my brother Zaig. I did not even know what a "driver," "stepper motor," or "G-Code"  was just 2 years ago (based on 2002). With MANY hours and MUCH patients I keep learning.  

My list is mostly Sherline products, as I have these machines, but am not affiliated with Sherline. This site will hopefully give you true unbiased opinions and facts. This list should be good for the beginner regardless of what company you are buying from as most parts are "the same type" on most machines. I hope this list helps you get on your way! Remember, my skill level is of a beginner to intermediate and this page should be used as one of the steps to your decision. Also, this list is not  for CNC, but for manual machining. 
Please see "MY CNC SETUP" for that information.

Join CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO and CNCZone for excellent advice and years of experience from guys and gals that enjoy the same hobby as you! Join the Sherline Group or CNC Sherline Group on Yahoo Groups if your planning to go the Sherline route. If not, search Yahoo Groups for your particular machine, it's there! Please check out my LINKS page (and the "links" pages of others) for many other machining and general websites. 

If you're thinking of getting into machining because you think it will be Cheaper, Faster or Easier then buying that "one part," DON'T! Please read that again. You will be very disappointed. Sadly, you will waste your money and valuable time. It will take many months and many mistakes to get that "one part" you could of just bought, that fits, that works. If you don't like to tinker, don't think you have the patients to figure out how something is made, and repeat that same process possibly 5 times over (because of mess-ups) reconsider machining. 

It is said that "you might spend 10 hours to make a $2.00 part," take it from me- it's very true.  

Precision machining is hard work, time consuming, and a continuous learning process. 
Get into it because of the rewards not the immediate satisfaction. 
There are no two ways around this.

HOWEVER, if you love to tinker, love to modify, have the patients to plan out things and the DESIRE to learn, LETS GET GOING!! Welcome to Machining! There is nothing like fitting and using your custom made part! The part you envisioned, planned out, and then carved out of scrap material.

Well, this mainly depends on what your planning to make, how fast it needs to be done, and at what precision level your looking for. This may be the hardest but most important question to answer as you may not know what you plan to make. I know this was the hardest thing for me to figure out. Take a look at MY EXAMPLES for some of the things I have made on my Sherline mill/lathe. This should give you a general idea of what can be made on a machine of this size. Size is the limiting factor not complexity or precision. Personally, I am very happy with my mill and my website should show this. I do wish I had a larger cutting diameter on my lathe but this could be done by installing the "riser blocks" which I have not done.  I do believe if you're wanting to cut larger parts then what you would see on a "60" size RC helicopter, mostly out of steel, or looking for production work, I would look at a larger heavier machine. If you stay within the capabilities of the machine it is very rewarding and the amount of accessories Sherline offers is incredible. If you go outside the limits of ANY machine it is going to be a disappointment. Also remember, a larger machine will be more expensive to setup, maintain and move around. Keep cost, size, and additional accessories in the "buying factor." Buy a larger stronger machine if you think you will need it and can afford it. However, always remember, spending more now will save you in the end.

If your wanting to make, for example, side frames for RC helis (large flat pieces), chasses for RC car, a CNC ROUTER will be a better option with its larger cutting area. The mill will be useless in this case. I am in the "process" of adding this to my collection. A CNC router is not structurally as strong as a mill and you will not be able to produce larger 3D parts with it. Now what "larger" is depends on what you plan to make and the material it's made from. Again, back to the same question.

I get a lot of emails asking me the cost of my setup. This is a difficult question since it depends on what you consider a "setup." For example, I consider the mill, all basic tooling, CAD/CAM/CNC software, measuring equipment, workbench, holding equipment, bench grinder, etc. etc, as my "setup." You almost "need" one to do the other.  The nice thing about building your own is you can do it in steps, little by little. To keep it simple, I would say for a 3 axes CNC model 54xx Sherline mill with CNC rotary table and basic software but NO accessories, you should expect to spend around $2,500. With other accessories I would say add another $1,000-$2,000 Overall, I would say I have close to $5,000 in my CNC mill and manual lathe.

I would say I have around $5,000 in my CNC Router. Luckily I am able to use many things inter-changeable (software, tooling, etc.)

***  EXPECT TO SPEND AROUND $2,500-$3,000 FOR A BASIC CNC MILL SETUP ***

(Updated 1-8-09)

I had always read that servos motor are better to get than stepper but could not afford them when I started. I stuck with steppers on my CNC Mill but finally did take the plunge and got servos for my CNC ROUTER. SO WHAT'S THE VERDICT? They are both good. Steppers will do the same job just as good as servos with out some hassle. However servos move quicker and are much quieter. I found I could run my servos at a much higher speed with the same computer and they did not stall anywhere near as much as the steppers. They whole think about feedback and they wills stop etc. is total BS. I though if the servos stopped your program stopped also or slowed down if one was in trouble; not the case...or at least not yet for our hobby cnc stuff.  If your servos or your steppers stall your project is over so make sure you cut at a the proper speed. The good thing is you can stall a stepper all day but a servos (which is just like a motor) will burn out. You will also need different drivers for servos vs. steppers. O yeah, servos run much cooler than steppers but this was never a concern for me. If you get steppers get bipolar.

So what would I buy? If I was converting a smaller mill like the Sherline I would stick with steppers but on a larger machine like the K2 I do think the servos are a better choice (they are faster). When I say faster I mean for jogging not cutting as you can only cut so fast and both servos and steppers can accomplish that. Both systems work just as well for precision. 

Questions? Comments? Ideas? I would love to hear from you!
Contact Me
2001-2009 Cuttingedgecnc.com; All Rights Reserved