Home
CNC Machining
RC Helis & Planes

Just Starting Out in Machining/CNC !
HOW EXCITING!!


 FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

** Topics Covered **
Click on the links below to go right to that section

- How I started- knowing nothing about machining to today
- General groups to join
- It will be cheaper and faster for me to make that cool part
- The most important and difficult question to answer; is the Sherline strong enough
- How much is it going to cost me
- Should I buy Stepper or Servos
- What to buy, where to start

     ** Quick Links **

       
- My CNC Setup
        - My Lathe
        - My CNC Router
        - What can CNC do?



** HOW I STARTED - KNOWING NOTHING ABOUT MACHINING TO TODAY: **

My brothers and I bought an RC airplane many years ago and found building it quite enjoyable! Through the many years we build quite a few airplanes together. One day I finally broke down after repeated attempts at making a good pitch slider for my LMH 110 conversion and thought it was time to start looking into these mysterious machines. I knew there were machines in the world that made parts but had never seen them. I had always heard of Sherline, being in RC, and after much reading on the internet, I bought Sherline's "Tabletop Machining" book around mid 1999. I must of read that book 10 times over understanding about 10% of it. What the heck is a "chuck," an "endmill," a "gib," or "backlash?" Each time I read the book I would pick up something new. The book is excellent, especially for beginners, with great pictures. It was not until I actually purchased the machines (4-25-00) that I started realizing what was going on. Now I think I understand 99% of the book:)

I purchased a manual metric milling machine (model 5410) and manual lathe (4410). After learning the basics of machining, I went for my ultimate goal of CNC (computer numeric control). Beginners, take it from me, it is very possible and this site should prove it. I knew NOTHING about CAD, CAM, CNC, G-Code, or Machining (not to mention making a web page :) but have learned by reading and much experimenting. I credit most of my learning to the internet, mainly the CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO, Sherline Group, CNCZone  and my brother Zaig. I did not even know what a "driver," "stepper motor," or "G-Code"  was just 2 years ago (based on 2002). With MANY hours and MUCH patients I keep learning.  

My list is mostly Sherline products, as I have these machines, but am not affiliated with Sherline. This site will hopefully give you true unbiased opinions and facts. This list should be good for the beginner regardless of what company you are buying from as most parts are "the same type" on most machines. I hope this list helps you get on your way! Remember, my skill level is of a beginner to intermediate and this page should be used as one of the steps to your decision. Also, this list is not  for CNC, but for manual machining. 
Please see "MY CNC SETUP" for that information.


** GENERAL GROUPS TO JOIN: **

Join CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO and CNCZone for excellent advice and years of experience from guys and gals that enjoy the same hobby as you! Join the Sherline Group or CNC Sherline Group on Yahoo Groups if your planning to go the Sherline route. If not, search Yahoo Groups for your particular machine, it's there! Please check out my LINKS page (and the "links" pages of others) for many other machining and general websites. 


** IT WILL BE CHEAPER AND FASTER FOR ME TO MAKE THAT COOL PART! **

If you're thinking of getting into machining because you think it will be Cheaper, Faster or Easier then buying that "one part," DON'T! Please read that again. You will be very disappointed. Sadly, you will waste your money and valuable time. It will take many months and many mistakes to get that "one part" you could of just bought, that fits, that works. If you don't like to tinker, don't think you have the patience to figure out how something is made, and repeat that same process possibly 5 times over (because of mess-ups) reconsider machining. 

It is said that "you might spend 10 hours to make a $2.00 part," take it from me- it's very true.  

Precision machining is hard work, time consuming, and a continuous learning process. 
Get into it because of the rewards not the immediate satisfaction. 
There are no two ways around this.

HOWEVER, if you love to tinker, love to modify, have the patients to plan out things and the DESIRE to learn, LETS GET GOING!! Welcome to Machining! There is nothing like fitting and using your custom made part! The part you envisioned, planned out, and then carved out of scrap material.


** THE MOST IMPORTANT AND DIFFICULT QUESTION TO ANSWER! **
IS THE SHERLINE STRONG ENOUGH or SHOULD I GO BIGGER?

Well, this mainly depends on what your planning to make, how fast it needs to be done, and at what precision level your looking for. This may be the hardest but most important question to answer as you may not know what you plan to make. I know this was the hardest thing for me to figure out. Take a look at MY EXAMPLES for some of the things I have made on my Sherline mill/lathe. This should give you a general idea of what can be made on a machine of this size. Size is the limiting factor not complexity or precision. Personally, I am very happy with my mill and my website should show this. I do wish I had a larger cutting diameter on my lathe but this could be done by installing the "riser blocks" which I have not done.  I do believe if you're wanting to cut larger parts then what you would see on a "60" size RC helicopter, mostly out of steel, or looking for production work, I would look at a larger heavier machine. If you stay within the capabilities of the machine it is very rewarding and the amount of accessories Sherline offers is incredible. If you go outside the limits of ANY machine it is going to be a disappointment. Also remember, a larger machine will be more expensive to setup, maintain and move around. Keep cost, size, and additional accessories in the "buying factor." Buy a larger stronger machine if you think you will need it and can afford it. However, always remember, spending more now will save you in the end.

If your wanting to make, for example, side frames for RC helis (large flat pieces), chasses for RC car, a CNC ROUTER will be a better option with its larger cutting area. The mill will be useless in this case. I am in the "process" of adding this to my collection. A CNC router is not structurally as strong as a mill and you will not be able to produce larger 3D parts with it. Now what "larger" is depends on what you plan to make and the material it's made from. Again, back to the same question.


** HOW MUCH IS IT GOING TO COST ME **

I get a lot of emails asking me the cost of my setup. This is a difficult question since it depends on what you consider a "setup." For example, I consider the mill, all basic tooling, CAD/CAM/CNC software, measuring equipment, workbench, holding equipment, bench grinder, etc. etc, as my "setup." You almost "need" one to do the other.  The nice thing about building your own is you can do it in steps, little by little. To keep it simple, I would say for a 3 axes CNC model 54xx Sherline mill with CNC rotary table and basic software but NO accessories, you should expect to spend around $2,500. With other accessories I would say add another $1,000-$2,000 Overall, I would say I have close to $5,000 in my CNC mill and manual lathe.

I would say I have around $5,000 in my CNC Router. Luckily I am able to use many things inter-changeable (software, tooling, etc.)

***  EXPECT TO SPEND AROUND $2,500-$3,000 FOR A BASIC CNC MILL SETUP ***

(Updated 1-8-09)


** STEPPERS OR SERVOS **

I had always read that servos motor are better to get than stepper but could not afford them when I started. I stuck with steppers on my CNC Mill but finally did take the plunge and got servos for my CNC ROUTER. SO WHAT'S THE VERDICT? They are both good. Steppers will do the same job just as good as servos with out some hassle. However servos move quicker and are much quieter. I found I could run my servos at a much higher speed with the same computer and they did not stall anywhere near as much as the steppers. They whole think about feedback and they wills stop etc. is total BS. I though if the servos stopped your program stopped also or slowed down if one was in trouble; not the case...or at least not yet for our hobby cnc stuff.  If your servos or your steppers stall your project is over so make sure you cut at a the proper speed. The good thing is you can stall a stepper all day but a servos (which is just like a motor) will burn out. You will also need different drivers for servos vs. steppers. O yeah, servos run much cooler than steppers but this was never a concern for me. If you get steppers get bipolar.

So what would I buy? If I was converting a smaller mill like the Sherline I would stick with steppers but on a larger machine like the K2 I do think the servos are a better choice (they are faster). When I say faster I mean for jogging not cutting as you can only cut so fast and both servos and steppers can accomplish that. Both systems work just as well for precision. 


** WHAT TO BUY **

Inch or Metric? Some say inch is more precise others swear by metric. Buy the system your MOST familiar with and you won't go wrong. I personally bought the metric. While I bought the metric machine, I don't buy metric endmills. Inch endmills are generally cheaper (and easier to find in USA) and as long as the converting your doing is correct, the part you make should be fine. Its no biggie, buy the UNIT your most familiar. Finally, even if you plan to go to CNC later, I still suggest buying the units your most comfortable with.
Lathe or Milling Machine? You will more than likely need BOTH. If your just starting out and can only afford one right now, I suggest buying the lathe first so you can get yourself into machining quickly.  The milling machine is a different animal and the experience gained from handling the lathe will help you out. I can truly say if I had bought the milling machine only I would of been very intimidated by machining! I also suggest, if buying Sherline, to saving up the money to buy two separate machines so you don't need to switch the headstock. While switching is quick, it will get old. If your thinking of going straight to CNC, I suggest getting a CNC mill only and upgrading your lathe to CNC at a later date.
Long or Short Bed Sherline
Lathe?
I highly recommend buying the LONGER bed lathe. It is not much more than the shorter one, and you will regret not getting it when you need that extra room for even one part! When you add the chuck, material, drill bits, etc., the room you think you have is gone pretty fast. Get the longer bed lathe! If you don't like machining anyway, the longer bed lathe will be easier to sell. Just trust me on this one :)
Standard or 8-Direction Sherline Mill? That's a tough but very important decision! One thing to keep in mind is that EVERY TIME you move the 8-direction mill out of its normal configuration you will need to RECALIBRATE it to get it back to "normal." This may not sound like a big deal but trust me it takes time and experience not to mention the right tools. For a beginner this will be a challenge, every time. I am glad I did not get the 8-directional mill as my first mill. If the mill is not "perfectly" squared up, the part you plan to make will NOT come out as expected! After reading about the 8-direction mill on newsgroups, I stuck with the "tried and true" configuration of a standard mill. Strong, ridge, and for the most part, always "squared up." The standard mill setup will be fine for most things you plan to make. I have run into one or two times where I wished I had the extra room or versatility of the 8-direction mill but with a little thinking I was able to make my parts. The decision is yours, but the standard mill, for the most part,  will be easier to maintain and keep "squared up." I don't regret getting it. You make the call but I think the 8-direction mill is best suited for an experienced machinist who knows how to "square things up" and take the advantages out of the extra movements.
-Lathe-
Starting out

Which Accessories?
-Long bed lathe (4400 or 4410)
-3 jaw chuck (1041)
-Live center (1191)
-Lathe bits 1/4" inch (Sherline or major supplier)
-Cut-off blade and holder (a must!)
-Center Drills (for the lathe/mill). I would get size 1/8" and 1/4" that's it for now.
-I personally feel the Sherline "Chip Guard" was a waste of money.
-Mill-
Starting out

Which Accessories?
Mill Standard or 8-directional. Inch or metric, you pick. (5400,5410 or 2000, 2010)
Machining Vise A must. Sherline's is very nice and holds quite a bit.
Flycutter Very neat and removes material quickly.
Endmills Depends on your work. For now buy 2 flute high speed steel (HSS) with NO size larger than 3/8". Mainly I would buy sizes 1/8" and smaller. Dremel bits, for the most part won't do, the mill does not spin fast enough. Make sure you get the endmill "shank" size for the endmill holder or collects you will be using. 
Step down blocks Get the adjustable ones, they are quite handy.
Allen screwdriver Good 5/32" ball-end for the vise and machine.
Endmill holder 3/8"  for your typical shank sizes.
Collets 1/8",3/32",1/4" collect set. I didn't get this and bought 2 of the collect sizes later,
still needing the 3rd. Just get all three and save the money.
Rotary Table Rotary Table is a definite must!  I highly recommend getting one, NOW or later.
Boring Tool Personally feel it should be bought when you know you need it.
Center Drills Center Drills as mentioned above.
Other Accessories? 
Micrometer Best one you can afford, personally I'd buy a 6 inch electric that reads in .0001" and .001 mm.
Bench Grinder 6, 7, or 8" get one with GOOD tool posts. I don't think you can beat Sear's Grinders for the money. Good grinders with sturdy tool posts. I made a "guide" for my grinder, click HERE to check it out. (Update: don't use aluminum on aluminum as it "gumms" together and is hard to move)
Grinder Wheels Get better pink or white wheels to shape your bits.  80-120 grit, H-J hardness.
Dial Indicator Best one you can afford.
Test Indicator Best one you can afford.
Blocks, 90º L Get some decent "2-3-4 blocks" and some 90 degree "Ls." to help in setup
Steel Wool 0000" to polish those parts on the lathe (careful as burrs will catch the steel wool and rip it out of your hands).
Cutting Oil  I use "3 in 1" oil but have also used WD-40. Use some oil.
Vacuum Shop vac is a must. Don't forget this or you maybe sleeping in the dog house :)
Drill Bits Get good ones! I have some cheapies and they are horrible. There is a difference.
Holding Tape Scotch double-sided tape, I can't tell you enough how well this stuff holds parts!
Taps & Dies Get the taps you will normally use for your work and any dies needed.
Dremel Dremel, high speed tool, you probably have one already.
General Screwdrivers, pliers, all that basic good stuff that you probably already have.
Books? I bought Joe's "Tabletop Machining" and its got great information, excellent pictures and talks about the basics of machining. Other than that I have spent countless hours on the internet learning and the good old fashion of "just get in there and do it."
Metal? Try to visit your local scrap yard. You might be lucky enough to find one that is organized and has some very good aluminum available. By far, 2011-T3 aluminum is the best to lathe in my opinion! Try to get some and also pick up some 6061-T6. You might also check to see about different steels they have available. Also check out my LINKS page for places to buy metal online.

Looking for my Sherline CNC Setup (CNC Mill)? Click HERE                             Looking for my K2 CNC Setup (CNC Router) Click HERE

What to see examples of what CNC can do? Click HERE



Questions? Comments? Ideas? I would love to hear from you!
Contact Me
2001-2009 Cuttingedgecnc.com; All Rights Reserved